ORMUS Recipe

I have been very impressed by the properties of ORMUS in myself and in others I have known, and I’ve seen it in plants.  Most of the ORMUS-making instructions are written in the language of chemistry, which is not a language I’m comfortable in.   Once I started making ORMUS for myself, I decided to re-write the instructions in “recipe” format, which I think will be easier for most people to follow.

I’ve gotta be sure and say there is absolutely NO recommendation about usage here. This is an experimental product for personal research purposes.

The best source of information about ORMUS on the entire web is Barry Carter’s site: www.subtleenergies.com/ormus


Equipment needed:

  • 2 Stainless steel or pyrex bowls, to hold at least one gallon volume each
  • Coffee filters
  • Strainer to hold coffee filters (coffee pot top is ok unless aluminum.) Do not use aluminum.
  • Squirt bottle with good lid, or dropper bottle
  • pH paper that tests up to at least 11 (I’m happy with strips ordered from www.indigo.com )
  • Large Glass jar (spigot at bottom is useful)
  • Turkey baster or 50cc syringe (esp. if you don’t have a spigot on the jar)

Pyrex measuring cup.

Ingredients needed:

  • Coarse sea salt. The gray kind that looks damp—clumps together—is best. I get it from Trader Joe’s for $3.79/2-cup jar. Or you can order Dead Sea Salt directly from www.snowdriftfarm.com
  • Lye (Red Devil Lye is in most groceries in the Drano section). You can also order food grade lye from www.snowdriftfarm.com
  • Gallon of Distilled water
  • White distilled vinegar

Preparation of lye mixture: Do this over the sink, out of the way.

Pour one cup of distilled water in Pyrex measuring cup that’s sitting in the sink. Add two tablespoons of lye powder. Standing back from the sink so fumes don’t get in your eyes, stir powder til it dissolves. Note: The water will get hot. If lye powder contacts your skin or clothes, remove it immediately with water and soap—take off the clothing immediately. The powder will eat through clothing and skin.  (Once the lye and water are mixed, contact with skin will result in a sunburn-like redness and sensitivity. )

Note:  The concept of working with lye is freaky to most people.  It was to me.  Here’s the Un-freaking news:

  1. First, by the time the lye is diluted in this first solution and then diluted many times over when it’s added to a large amount of water, there is NO danger to it.  It is only barely stronger than baking soda at this point.  What’s more, the slight alkalinity of the solution is very healthy, as we tend to be dangerously acidic in our bodies.
  2. The lye powder is highly caustic (can burn skin), if you handle it directly.  The solution is, don’t reach your hand into the lye jar to grab 2 tablespoonfuls.  Use a spoon.
  3. Fumes from the concentrated lye-water mixture are dangerous to breathe.  All you need to do is turn your head away from the mix and make sure a fan isn’t blowing it into your face.  If it’s blowing your way you won’t be accidentally poisoned.  You’ll immediately notice a slightly uncomfortable sensation in your nose or throat, and your natural (and appropriate) reaction will be to move away.   If you want to be overzealous in your caution, take a fan outside and turn it on so the fumes, when you mix the lye and water, will blow away from you.   The fumes last a very brief time.

Place the squirt bottle or dropper bottle in the sink and pour the lye solution into the bottle. If water is still hot, leave the lid loosely placed over the top. You can fasten it later, when the water cools down.

Ormus Instructions:

  1. Pour 4 quarts (one gallon) of water in a bowl and dissolve the salt in the water. (Different kinds and brands of salt have different yields. If I’m using celtic salt only, I’d use 1/2 cup per gallon.  If I use dead sea salt only, I use 1/8 cut per gallon.  My preference is to mix slighly less than 1/2 c celtic salt with 2 tablespoons dead sea salt.)
  2. Strain salt water thru coffee filters into the second bowl. You will probably have to use many coffee filters, especially if you use celtic salt as there’s a lot of “stuff” in sea salt.
  3. With pH paper ready, start adding dropperfuls (or very small squirts) of lye-water to the salt water, STIRRING CONSTANTLY. (Vary your stir pattern, as the lye-water will tend to concentrate on one section unless you blend it everywhere.)  You will notice the water becoming milky in color as you add the lye-water.
  4. Check the pH of the water. You want the pH to reach 10 without going as high as 11. It will rise slowly til it gets to about 9, and then will go faster. When it gets to about 10 it will suddenly rise FAST. If it gets as high as 11, add a few drops of vinegar to bring the PH back down.
    Note: The reason for the exact pH reading is that the m-state elements (ORMUS) will drop out of the water at just over 10.5. If you go too high, other elements (“Gilchrist Elements”) will drop out of the water, and they are bad for you. So you want the pH to stay under 11. (10.78 to be exact).
  5. When the correct pH is reached, check several places in the water to make sure it’s evenly distributed.
  6. Pour water in large jar. Let it settle for at least 4 hours. Overnight is best. A white or grey precipitate will form at the bottom of the jar.
  7. When 4-12 hours has passed, drain or siphon off the clear water (salt water), and refill the bottle with distilled or good drinking water. (You may keep the siphoned-off water, adding more distilled water to it and raising the pH again.  You don’t need to add more salt.  Re-using the siphoned off water is likely to give you more precipitate.)
  8. Shake the precipitate in the new clean water and let it settle again for 4-12 hours. This is called “washing the precipitate”.
  9. Wash the precipitate at least 3 times with clean water, each time shaking it and letting it settle at least 4 hours before repeating.
  10. After the last wash, pour the “slurry” of grey/white powder and water into a glass jar with a lid and save it for use. Store it away from electric or magnetic fields, preferably in a dark place.
  11. Since ORMUS is strongly affected by intent and by energy fields, it seems to increase its potency if you surround it with high-energy objects. These range from crystals, to photos of beloved teachers or grandmothers, to written intentions of goals, etc.  It also will be stronger and more effective if you are in a good mood while you’re making it–if all else fails, listen to happy or uplifting music while you make it.

How to use:

If you choose to ingest it, start with about a half teaspoon twice a day. If you take too much at the beginning you may go into a “healing crisis” as your body detoxes.  Also, since there is a large amount of magnesium in the precipitate, taking too much to start with may send you to the bathroom a bit too often (think Milk of Magnesia).

It has also been applied directly to the skin to improve scars, age spots, wrinkles, discolorations, etc.

Pets and plants love it. (You don’t need to use much on plants to get huge yields. If you use TOO much, yield drops. The ratio, for what it’s worth, is 3 gallons per acre once a season. I’ve also heard one-half cup per five gallons of water.) Flowering plants bloom like mad after receiving just a drop of Ormus in their water.

For more information on Ormus, combining Ormus with essential oils, or for astrological insights into personal growth contact me at [email protected]

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